Monday, December 15, 2008

Fuji

Mt Fuji looking bigger than life.To bad the resolution on the cell sucks

Sunday, December 14, 2008

Training It

Doin the train tonight. Tomorrow I'll finally get my car in.

Friday, December 12, 2008

300 yen Thursdays

Another 300 yen Thursday it was. Juju, Justin and I had another good time. The view was nice too.

Cheers

Wednesday, December 10, 2008

Kai and I

Kai and I killin some Yuuki Shokudou. There's a nice swell in today. I get to watch Kai and can't paddle out untill the wifey gets home. Thats all good though. It's not everyday I get to hang out with just one of my boys.

Tuesday, December 9, 2008

スターバー

Brrrrr. Pretty cold today. This kind of weather calls for a hot coffee with a view of Kamakura Station. Went to the LTO with Jahsh and JuJu today. After that, we did a little tour through LA LA PORT. California Pizza Kitchen was pretty good too. It looks as if there might be a swell on the horizon too. Will tomorrow require the donning of my 4 mili, booties and gloves for a morning sesh?

Thursday, December 4, 2008

今日も

ゆうき食堂 (Yuuki Shokudou)

Wednesday, December 3, 2008

Alcohol Free Yuuki

Ate at the Shoku. No beers for me though. I have take the boys to swimming. Thats ok, I'll compensate for it later.

START IT UP

What a way to start my day.

Tuesday, December 2, 2008

Playland at Daiei

Kai at Daiei

The Shoku

Forgot the post yesterday. This is part of what I got. Master hooked us up, as usual. A bunch of extra sashimi and OOmori on the taco chahan.

Monday, December 1, 2008

coffee, and soon to be alcohol

Just chillin at Starbucks in Kamakura. Jahsh will be here in a minute and then its off to Yuuki for good grinds and beer.

Wednesday, November 26, 2008

The Aftermath

Three stitches from a quack doctor and it turned into a black eye.

Tuesday, November 25, 2008

stitches

Three fuckin stiches. I was hoping for glue. The old Doc had shakey hands and no gloves. I guess I need to paddle back out.

Tragic Finish

A nice overhead session was interupted by a need for a couple of stitches ざんねん

power up

about to do a session and need to power up

Friday, November 21, 2008

drink

Drinking again

Thursday, November 20, 2008

SEEDLESS

Just chilin at SEEDLESS with Juju.

Wifey

Just playing with the keitais photo editing software.

Wednesday, November 19, 2008

Kai Kai

Todays Kai

J J

Todays Jake

Yuuki Shokudo

Jahsh and I chowed down at Yuuki Shokudo

starting up

The start of yuuki

Venture Out

Roaming the streets of Kamakura.

Tuesday, November 18, 2008

wind&sea

Hard on shore and super choppy

Matcha & Menthol

So I have been skipping out on the gym lately and smoking. To much beer too. As I was once told by a wiseman "I'm just working on the before pic."

Fishing




Well, I didn't get skunked. I also forgot to bring my cell phone to take pictures of the fish. I ended up catching five Aji, one Saba and two mebaru. I stole these from the internet to show you what I caught. Maybe I'll get some more next time.

Monday, November 17, 2008

swim SWIM swim

the boys have swimming lessons today. I'm going fishing tonight. I'll post pics later.

Sunday, November 16, 2008

BIG BOYS

Big boys drinkin big boys. Starting up on a four day weekend.

A Great Dinner

The COOKIE BOYS rolled over to chili's.

from the cell

coming at you as a cell test subject.

I Have A Dream

I dream of perfection
On thursday I paddled out for a nice foru hour session. It was great because I was the only one out for the first two hours. Nothing like video above, but a nice shoulder high day over my favorite left breaking reef (Osaki).

Wednesday, November 5, 2008

The new Prez

So history is made with the first half black president. He's a great speaker and I hope all will go well for America during his reign.

Sunday, April 13, 2008

Bye Bye Lou Dog


We picked up a pup for the boys about a month ago. Do to some sad circumstances we are going to have to pass our new family member to someone else. Kai, my youngest son, has developed asthma and is allergic to dogs. At the time of the addition we had know idea what was causing Kai to not being able to breath. In the past month he has had to stay in the hospital for about 12 days. Unfortunately for Kai, he likes dogs. He really loved playing with his Lou Dog. When he gets out of the hospital this time, Lou will have a new home. I wonder what my boy will do when he realizes his best friend is gone.

Goodbye Lou
It was great knowing you

Sunday, March 2, 2008

My first paddle out for the year was on Sunday (2/24). I was pretty stoked to get back in the water. Here it is March already and I have only been wet twice. Something wrong with this picture. I live up the street from the beach and all I ask for would be a little bit of consistency. My suit was great. I bought a Matuse. By far the best investment I have made lately. Smooth as silk and kept me warm, it's nice, I dig it.

Back to the sessions. Sunday was brewed up from a big low that pulled in from Siberia. It's cool to watch these storms develop and pass the earth blessing the shores with the waves they bring. The same storms eventually hit the North Shore of Hawaii and grace the rest of the Americas with a powerful swell that has crossed the Pacific and greets those of us who wait for these gifts of pounding surf. In the winter they don't have the affect here that they do at other breaks across the world. We are lucky to get anything out of them at all. Unfortunately our window is pretty small.

I went out the night before and did some heavy drinking at Zion, my friends bar. Joji-san owns and runs a bar at the far end of Zaimokuza beach in Kamakura. In the summer he opens a beach house, on the beach of course. Not exactly a beach house though, more like bar/restaurant at night and a place to grab some grub and rent beach items during the day. In Japan in the summer most of the beaches are lined with places called umi-no-ie (translates to beach house). They are only open for for the months of July and August. I was told by someone that the local beach commission (Yakuza) is paid around 20 grand each to allow one of these establishments to open. I guess people make out pretty good on a busy year.

I ended up rolling back in at the pad around 4 am. I awoke around 11 am greeted by a pounding headache and a dry parched throat. I left my bike at the bar and had to walk down the hill and get it. On the walk down I checked out the ocean from my favorite lookout point. To my surprise the beaches were lit up with a swell that I thought would have died out from the wind the night before. The ocean was dotted with a couple handful of people that decided to bare the cold and hit this swell that remained. I got my bike and rode on the beach to get a better look. My neighbor was down there too, gathering seaweed that was blown in overnight. He asked me if I was going to paddle out. Still battling a migraine, I knew it was inevitable that I'd be in the water. I decided I'd check the point and the outer reef. Osaki point had a nice little bump and only about five guys out. Joji-san was there on the seawall doing the same thing I was. The swell looked pretty good. Lines out to the horizon and a falling tide. I knew that in about an hour that it'd pick up and the wind would die down a bit. Joji-san was asking me if was going to hit up the point or the beach. I knew where I really wanted go, so passing up the point I decided I'd the river mouth with Joji-san. I rode my bike back up the hill and rested head with a tall glass of water and a Motrin. I slipped into my suit, gloves and booties. It was about 40 degrees outside. The water right now is chillin at a cool 50. I put my board on my bike and took off towards the beach.

I arrived to head high waves and about 20 people in the lineup. Not to bad considering that it was a Sunday. I guess most of the herd had hit it in the morning and called it a day. My first time in my new suit and I was anticipating pain as I entered the water. Nothing, not even a slight sting. I was bone dry. Now all I need to do is find a better pair of boots. I got on my board and made my way through the breaking waves to the outside. The wind was howling offshore and biting at every inch of exposed skin. The shower from the top of a passing wave beat down on you like pelting rain. I have learned to read the incoming waves at river mouth. Way out there is a spot where the wave will jack up just a bit. If you see this you know a big set coming. I don't think to many other surfers down there know this though. I sometimes am the receiver of an odd glance because I'll be the only one scratching to get out even further. Many a times I have seen the half the lineup has been washed out. Some of the regulars have learned to keep an eye on me. I think this is kind of funny because they have been surfing the same spot years longer than I have. Sunday was one of those days. I like to call them the big river mouth rights. I had gotten in about ten good rides before I decided that i wanted to get some backside action in. I paddled down the beach about 100 yards just past the antennas. Just then a nice four was set was racing in. I got the third wave and rode it all the way to the beach. A big mistake. I had to paddle out through three different sets. I got drained and drilled.

After about an hour and a half in to the session Joji-san called it quits. He had quit smoking this past summer a d blames that on the 15 kilo weight gain. This was also his first out for the year and he said he was feeling the weight he had put on. I think it also had something to do with the fact that he didn't have on his gloves. I could tell that cold was getting painful on the hands. A few other guys were also had succumbing to the numbing cold and retired for the day. Again, I was glad to be nice and toasty in my new suit. Thanks Matuse. I hope you guys make a full 2 mm. I would be happy to replace 3/2, and lavish myself with a new super warm more flexible thinner suit.

I stayed out for about 2 more hours and rode one lat wave in. Perfection, the sun was setting and an array of red, orange and pink was filling the sky with a splendor from the heavens. AN other day out. My first of the year. It was exhilarating, I hadn't used my surf muscles in a couple months and could already feel the effects. I love it, all of it, all time spent in the water is precious to me. I feel as if the ocean cleanses me. I am washed of any and all stress that has built up. I keep my eyes on the net. I am consumed with the daily checks of weather reports and great invention of LOLA. I will keep my eyes open. I need another swell. The paddle outs are food for my soul.

Sunday, January 27, 2008

The Day After

It's the day after my birthday and I am now 30. I was told that my generation is expected to live to be 90. Wow, 1/3 of my life has now past. Friday I hooked up with a few of my bros and we went out for drinks and good times. Stayed out until the break of dawn and spent half of my birthday hung over. On my birthday I hooked up with the fam and we went to our favorite local yaki niku joint. I have yet to get we this year. It's really starting to get to me. I have my eyes across the water to Chiba. Chiba, almost all year, is consistent. It's only a short boat ride away too. I wish my wife had the bug. That way she'd know that I have to get out and surf. Another day has past and I am looking to the future.

Monday, January 21, 2008

Present to myself

Within the last month I haven't been going to the gym as much as I should be. I think I actually have lost a lot of muscle and put on about 10lbs of fat. I have decided that I will give myself a good birthday preset. A new body in 12 weeks. Unfortunately I will have to cut out on the (PRIME TIME) I will be putting in a new thread starting the 28th documenting my weekly progress. I welcome you to follow my progress.

Friday, January 18, 2008

One Week Out

I'm one week away from my 30th birthday. Gone are the days of my spent youth. I was told that between now and age forty five will be the best days of my life. By this age the flavor of life has it's own taste, it's to be a new taste. The emotional turmoil of youth is all behind me. Hopefully, the evolution of me will take an upward turn and I will excel at all that I do. On that note my plan now is to accelerate the loss of a few brain cells because it's (PRIME TIME)


Tuesday, January 1, 2008

Happy New Year

I't been a while since I posted. Happy New Year to everyone and myself. May this year be as good, if not better, as the last one. I hope that the swell will be more consistent than last year.